Author: Gran Colombia

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Is the Search coming to an end?

If you follow my blog and videos, you will know I have been searching for a partner… a girlfriend. I will share a bit of private info.

During my illness of nearly 3 years, and bed-ridden for 2 1/2 of those years. During that time, I was alone. That was my choice. Up until then, I had a girlfriend of one year, but in truth, it wasn’t all that serious. I was immersed in my work and had little room for anyone else. It was more a situati0on of convenience for both of us. I will say she was very nice and in time it could have been something special. However, when I learned I was sick and that the outcome would take time and possibly not very good, I felt I should do it alone. Now, of course, my ego would love to tell you that it was selfless, that I didn’t want to put her through it all, but I must be more honest than that here so I will say I didn’t want the burden of someone else while I would go through something so personal. I fact, I didn’t tell anyone. Not even family. So through that time, certainly no relationship.

When I had my “miracle cure”, I left for Ecuador. Before I left I was given a prescription for a medication and was told I must take it at least three years and possibly the rest of my life. Let me tell you a bit about the meds.

There were two pills, that worked together. One is like a catalyst for the other. There was no alternative to these. They came with certain side effects. First, they dropped my metabolism to zero. Since I had already gotten so fat (as in big as a house) during that time stuck in bed, this wasn’t good news. It also killed any chance of libido. In fact, it has a risk of impotence long term. I can confirm the symptom, as I had no thoughts or desire to have anyone in that sort of way for over two years in Ecuador. It was humorous to me some comments I would get about videos because I had so many young girl friendships. I will respond to that now.

My entire life most of my friends were female. Early on it was for the obvious reason. But in time, I found they often made better friends. I am very selective about friends and usually do not have or want very many. Of course, when I am overseas I intentionally have a greater number of fiends for selfish reasons. I am also easy to talk to and trustworthy and women feel safe around me. It was no different in Ecuador. It was odd for me, however. For the first time in my life, I can say I had zero sexual thoughts about my female friends. It didn’t come to my brain and if it did it is unlikely I could act on it. I was not thrilled with that, but it was better than the alternative I had faced.

When I first arrived I needed to locate a Doctor that would understand the type of illness (cancer) I had so I could do follow-ups. I found one. He spoke perfect English. He had spent 14 years in New York practice. he had a Brooklyn accent in fact. When I first met him I gave him medical records about 2 inches thick. He skimmed through and went right to the heart of it. it was obvious he understood what was going on. In the USA, it was only the specialist called in that actually understood so I was pleasantly surprised. On one visit I was complaining about the medication. Other side effects are that it made me really ill on some days. So tired I didn’t want to move, my body would ache as well. I felt like I was hit by a truck and needed to sleep. This was not good as it only made my need to get out and walk all the more difficult.

While there are still no alternatives, he did suggest taking a “one capsule includes all” version. In this, he said, the dosage was a bit more dialed in and I may feel better. It didn’t. In the USA my meds were free through the VA, in Ecuador, they cost me $50 a month.

There is a some good news here however. After about 2 1/2 years in Ecuador, he told me I no longer needed to take both medications. I could now take a single drug. After about a week of that new med, I could feel myself changing. I began to think of all things sexual again. I felt some energy. I stopped feeling sick from the meds. that was the biggest blessing. it was so difficult to be as active as I was and always pretending I didnt feel like walking death.

This was also around the time I was getting all the Pneumonia problems due to altitude, so it was just one thing replacing another. It was also when I began to think about moving to Colombia, and I had already visited a number of times.

By the time I actually made the move, my libido was in full swing. After the move, I have remained healthy and no more pneumonia issues as well. The Doctor was 100% correct about that and the move made a huge impact on my health in the best of ways. He also suggested I begin a 3-month course of a testosterone gel to replace what the meds had drained from me. I did that, but never really noticed anything different that I hadn’t already noticed from the meds change.

So I find myself in Manizales, feeling pretty good. To my joy, my meds in Colombia were only $12 versus the $50 in Ecuador. I also began wanting to have someone in my life, for the first time in six years. I decided to start actively looking.

While in Manizales, I really only dabbled, as I knew I would not be there long. But when I got to Armenia, I went all in. I didn’t let my financial situation get in the way, and if I found the right person it wouldn’t matter anyway. So I began meeting people. I used a few internet apps. I would meet people and flirt (girls love a gringo that sucks at Spanish apparently). As my circle of people grew, I would also be introduced to others. I can safely say I have met with, dated, etc over 30 in the past 5 months, and have chatted with twice that. I think I may be at the end of this process, and I sure hope so.

While I have met some very nice people, I cannot say I liked this process overall. It isn’t what I want to spend my time doing. But it sure educated me. What to look for, how to find someone, what to watch out for… Some things are obvious but many things were really eye openers. It truly is a minefield.

So this brings me to a dilemma. I get many many requests from other guys on this topic. My most hated and misunderstood video of all time is the “For Men Only” from a few years ago. that video was in the heart of the time I had no interest in anything sexual. Yet I would get nasty comments about what a dirty guy I was. In fact, I still get them, as my most hated video is also my most watched video. I made that video because of the endless requests by predators that wanted to go to Ecuador, flash some money and basically buy a live-in sex partner. Now I really don’t want to be judgemental about these things because I am one to not really care what others do. But I was sick of the emails, and Ecuador isn’t the place to do that anyway (for the most part). I can safely say that nearly all the hate mail  I would get was from people that clearly didn’t actually watch that video. They assumed I was talking about myself looking for young girls I could buy. They even thought the cover photo was of myself. Crazy, right? That’s life on youtube.

So what is my dilemma? Glad you ask me. I get sincere questions from guys about how they should go about finding a girlfriend in Colombia. It is something I feel should be confidential. It is also something that is not comfortable for me, yet I understand because of what I have gone through. Many guys have a sincere wish to simply find love again, and not spend their life alone. I get it. And I have the knowledge now and want to help. But I have no idea in what way. I could never make a video about this, at least for general viewing. I certainly don’t care to write anything more detailed than I write this blog today. So how do I do it? I would love some advice on this.

I mentioned it may be coming to an end. I think I may have found someone. I will announce it to the world if it ends up that way, but it will likely be weeks away as I really am being cautious.

Thank you for following, and I hope being this open can help others in similar situations.

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What do you do all day?

While they rarely know what a T-Shirt says, you can believe they understand this one!

I am asked this quite a bit. It is tough to answer because my days vary so much. Much of my day revolves around doing the videos, so we will just assume that and talk about the other things.

I think the questions come from self-interest. In other words… what will I be doing and will I be bored to death? I think that depends so much on the person. If you speak little Spanish and have little interest in learning, you will likely surround yourself with familiar things and stay in a lot. It is easy enough to become a secluded couch potato. Now and then I will practice that craft myself.

I generally wake without alarm from 5-6 AM. I think you can be as interested or as bored as you choose. For me, much of my days I will simply go for a walk. While I lean toward the “anti-social” end of the spectrum, I love to people watch. There is plenty of ammunition for that hobby! In fact, a few of my favorite things to notice are as follows.

I love to look at T-Shirts. I would love to do a video on them. It amazes me. Nearly all are in English, and I would wager that few of the wearers have no clue what they say. It reminds me of the people that get Chinese tattoos with some deep meaning only to learn it is a recipe for soup. Or an ad for Huawei. Because of that, you can see some hilarious or embarrassing (did I just repeat myself?) T-Shirts walking around. It is a bit like an outdoor sport that must be WAY better than bird watching.

Another people-watching related thing is to simply view the interactions. Now that sounds mundane, right? It sounds obvious. However, here in Armenia, it is the next level. You have to see it to understand it. But I love watching people go out of their way for others. You see taxis waving pedestrians across an intersection even when they have the green light. Or you see pedestrians notice they have a fare aboard and wave them on. Where else is that done? It amazes me constantly, for I see it constantly. I see seats on the bus given up for others (Ecuador could learn something from that) or doors held open for a stranger. If someone appears to be lost or confused, there is no shortage of people that will stop to inquire if they need help.

One day I was waiting outside the Movistar office to open. In front of that office on a short wall sits a man, every day. He has artificial legs and is quite old. Likely a victim of the FARC war of the past. Every few times I go past Ill drop a 1000P in his cup. But on this day, I saw this young school girl (catholic uniform, hell kitty backpack) coming his way. She got to him and rummaged around in her purse. She took out all her coins. She looked at him and back at her coins. She dropped all of them in his cup, then quickly went back on her way. You just know she has very kind parents that she loves and respects.

Some days I will sit and have bottled water (carbonated, called agua con gas) at an outdoor cafe. Again I repeat myself because they are all outdoor. I will sit for an hour, taking video clips now and then but mostly just watch the world go by. There is so much happening, and in such a positive way, it feels refreshing.

Sometime during the day, I will use the gym I have as part of my building. I do not keep up with it ever since I hurt my leg, and need to get back on it. Being sloppy for a few weeks can become a habit. But in general, I will be there an hour, spending 20 minutes on the bike and 40 minutes on the universal gym machine. Earbuds in, listening to music of course, and thinking about video topics.

What else? when I can afford it (had some issues in the past 4 months), I will jump on a bus to visit a local area/town.

I also have been “Dating”. A lot. Since Manizales, I have been actively looking for a girlfriend. The permanent kind. I am way too picky. I have yet to find someone I want to keep. On the other hand, I have met many very nice people. I know most guys want to know all about this process but unless it is in person, I prefer to keep details to myself. I have no intention to talk about someone or post their picture in some frivolous way. But I can tell you I have met with dozens. All ages, sizes, and colors. While I am really picky, the physical attributes are not what I am so picky about. So this takes up some of my time as well. I can actually recommend this process as you will meet many new friends.

I will go down to “El Centro” and walk around, checking out items quality and prices. I will go to the malls and do the same. I spend a fair amount of time on the internet mostly researching one topic or another. Often, for a video I plan to do, but also for myself as well. I tend not to believe anything I read especially when it comes to politics, so I spend time looking at sources. Scientific American is a fav site for me, and I will also look at speeches and lectures on youtube so I can hear first hand what someone has to say. I really hate getting interpretations of something when I can see it all, in context, for myself. I probably spend 2 hours a day on this.

I have various social media but actually, don’t spend a ton of time on them. I have twitter and never look at it. I actually despise the format. I have Instagram and look for maybe 3-5 minutes in the morning. I have facebook and will scan for comments and comment on something that I find of interest, and I monitor the group I have, Adventure in Gran Colombia. With a few exceptions now and then, I rarely will spend more than 10 minutes in a day on social media platforms.

Later in the evening, usually after 9PM I will binge watch some sort of TV or movies. I generally go to sleep around 2AM. I use Stremio mostly. I really should cancel Netflix. While cheap it really is a waste of money. Stremio gives me everything I want to watch anyway. Now and then a show I want to see will have a bad source and buffer too much, in which case I will check it out on Kodi. An example is Gordon Ramseys 24 hour show. On Stremio it never has a good source. But on Kodi, I can watch no problem. I watch on my laptop, located on a tall table next to my bed. Why no TV? Well when it is just me, a 17″ screen a foot away is fine. One day when I straighten out my finances I will buy one for when I have company in the future (as in a girlfriend). Until then this works fine. I do have 2 firesticks so when that day comes I will still have the programs. If you are paying for cable, I have to say it is a bit wasteful. I need no VPN and pay nothing yet I can watch more than any cable provider has to offer. Thin about that.

That is essentially my daily list of things that I do. Of course, I left out the skype calls (getting more on the consulting thing) as well as a host of other things that come along infrequently. Most of the day is video work. It is pretty much a full-time job.

So what can you do if you move here? The sweet answer is, anything you want! Write a book. Start a business. Travel around. Make friends. Go out to dinners. Ride a bike. Whatever you care to do, you can do it. I can tell you that even if you tend to be sedate, this environment will likely drag you out of it. it is too enjoyable out there to ignore. What do you do to stay busy in your life?

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I did it! Any Regrets?

I have moved all my past blogs (except for a few I deleted). I canceled the old WordPress account. it was a pain to use and keep up with. This Google blog is not only free but is much easier to use. So possibly that will translate into more frequent postings.

What is the point of my blogs? To share my life with you as an expat in South America. No hype or BS, just the experience I have. In the blog, I am more open than in the videos. I have said many times but it still remains true… I really do not like being in the videos, and to this day, even after about 350 of them, I am still uncomfortable with it. When I watch back to edit, it is obvious to me that I am rarely myself in them. I am stiff, even awkward while in person I am nearly always smiling and talkative. I notice my use of “crutches” that I rarely use in real life, such as “so”. It kills me to hear how much I say that, or even “Ummm”. Yes, I am aware of and hate it.

But in a blog, I am just doing steam of thought. no prep, no outline, just typing what I think at that moment. I like that.

So what is my life like now in Colombia after 7 months or Armenia after 5 months?

I am really enjoying it. I noticed that when I read back on my original blogs from when I first moved to Ecuador, how “rosy-eyed” I was. Coming off a death sentence and an illness for so long, and being restricted to a bed for a few years, I will forgive myself. However, to be fair, it does take a while for anyone to get the good and the bad. That is how I got into the videos and what I try to do for people before they commit their life and fortune to someplace they do not know. I was not aware of the food problem in Ecuador. I didn’t know about the poor quality and all the chemical use. I mean, why would I know that? All you ever read is how awesome it is. All the great fruits and veggies! In the end, much of what I would buy was actually imported. Sadly, many that live there either do not know or will deny what they don’t really know. It took an Ecuadorian to teach me what was going on.

Even so, I still loved my time in Cuenca and in Giron. Especially Giron. That time there was life changing for me in a personal way and helped me overcome some issues I struggled with. My own South American Walden’s Pond!

Now with Colombia, I had a massive advantage. I was already healthy and not blinded by the sheer fact I had not died! It is amazing how much you will look past in that situation! But I also made a number of trips over 2 years to visit Colombia to re-learn it after the 16+ years I had been away. There were no surprises really. I enjoyed the 2 months in Manizales, especially since it just confirmed things I loved about Armenia.

Is Armenia a picturesque beauty? Not really. Few things can compare to the “El Centro” of Cuenca Ecuador. But day to day, that becomes less important to me. It is like seeing the Grand Canyon. Amazing. A jaw dropper! The first time I saw it was nearing sundown. At the moment I stepped up to the edge and looked over, the sun got low enough to splash down the canyon walls. It was a natural light show of indescribable beauty! The timing was amazing. Yet, I would not care to live there.

Armenia is modern in a way I missed. Colombia in fact is modern, at least as you move north or Popayan. I like having everything available. I grew up with nothing and for me, glamorizing that life has no value. I have no need to “get back to nature” (I never left it) or feel the need to live in a hovel with nothing to attempt to prove my worth to people I do not know. I enjoy having access to good food, entertainment, and decent sheets to sleep on! As an added bonus, I enjoy living in a very low priced economy. Now Giron, and many places in Ecuador are quite cheap to live. But Cuenca certainly isn’t. Newbies always want to judge that based on lower rents than the USA and cheap lunches. But due to some mild socialist policies, the economy does not directly correlate with other economies. while one item can be 1/10 of the cost in the USA, another can be 400% more than in the USA. That makes it hard to get a handle on and takes quite a bit of time to realize what your real costs are. One thing I like about Colombia is that most things are about the same. if something is high in the US, it will likely be high here, and the same for low costs.

In Armenia, living a very decent lifestyle of middle-class or higher, it will cost you about 1/3 of the USA. You have to love that. I can live well in Armenia on about $1000 a month while In Cuenca it was $1400 or more. In fact, to equal the actual lifestyle I have here, it was more like $2000 in Cuenca and would be around $4000 in the USA (excluding high priced places like San Fran, etc).

That turns out to be a huge benefit to me I never expected. I had quite a bit of income when I first moved to Cuenca, and over time that dwindled for various reasons. By the time I moved to Colombia, that ended, but to add to the issue, I had a series of unexpected expenses that put me in a near disastrous situation. Had I not been in Armenia when all this hit hard, I am not sure what I would have done. Fortunately, even with the problems, I am able to live OK in Armenia. But it was a real eye-opener for me, and a lesson everyone should pay attention to.

We cannot count on the future. You never know the turns it can take, so it is really important to have back up plans. I actually thought I did, but a series of events eroded that plan and I am probably on plan G now. I realized I can no longer afford to spend my time doing things out of pocket, and I must make my efforts bring in funds. So I have been hard at work setting up the framework for that over the past 4 months. Now all I have to do is actually make some money!

I am not complaining by any means. I am sharing my experience because others may benefit from it. I was not able to work long before I was eligible for retirement. You cannot do much from a bed. Year after year, that ate away my savings. So to do this, everything needed to go well. When that fell apart, I needed to essentially return to work (video projects). I considered returning to the USA to work, I know I could find a good job as I have some unique skills. But the move, setting up a car, apartment and all I would need is simply unaffordable. Truth be told, I really do not want to lose the life I have made either. So like anytime we find ourselves down, we just fight to get back up. I spent a lifetime doing it, so I am confident it will happen.’

Do I regret coming to Colombia? Hardly. I am very grateful and happy to be here! Do I regret going to Ecuador? No. There are some things I regret. A few “If I had known” type things that would have gone a long way to prevent my situation now, but that aside, no I am glad I spent that time there. I made some very dear friends and moments I am very glad I did not miss. Life is all about ups and downs. My life is no different. I think the advantage I have is that having been through some pretty horrible times in my life makes the issues of today seem like just a problem to work through. I retain my optimism and happiness with my life. A far cry from a very dark time a few years ago. Today I not only want to live but I am loving every minute of it.

Moral of the story? Life laughs at your best efforts to plan! Never forget that.

By the way… subscribe to this blog if you want to get notified of new posts, and feel free to comment. Watch the videos, and of course, contribute to the channel!

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Isolation

Isolation

You may recall if you follow this blog, that I had decided after living in Cuenca for one year, to isolate myself in a very tiny town for a time. I enjoyed my time in Giron, and made trips into Cuenca every few days for shopping. However, I really lived like a hermit for that year. For reasons I have covered I just wanted some “alone time”.

Here I am in Manizales, Colombia and as of a few weeks ago, I find myself back in that mood. Except for a few times when I had no choice, I have isolated myself in the apartment. I just need a break from time to time. I need to step out of the stream of life and regroup. I mentioned in the last blog that I had intentionally been meeting people. Well, that takes a toll on me and I decided to stop for a while. I am not depressed. In fact, I am quite happy. 

I got a comment on my last blog. The guy had all sorts of insults and advice for me. Called me a typical “sexpat”, and that I should basically be more Colombian if I wanted to find a girlfriend. It always amazes me the amount of condescension people can have. Lots of assumptions. His mind must have been working overtime to picture what I must think. All because I am in Colombia. He made a comment that basically, all Colombian women were prostitutes. 
I could have written the exact same words about a time in New York, and his comments would have never been made. I wonder what that makes him? He told me if I want a woman I need to take a shower. Along with an entire list of other things I must do if I want a good woman in Colombia. I guess a good woman that is also a prostitute? Did any of this upset me? No. Sadly I am getting used to this sort of thing. When you put yourself out there in writing or video, slimeballs crawl out of the woodwork with the intention of being superior and try to tear you down. In this case, he was so ridiculous, I laughed through most of it.

This week I am going through analysis. I am looking for alternative platforms for youtube. I am deciding how I will take this project forward. I am looking at various ways to monetize what I am doing. I plan to make a day trip to a little town not far from me. The place fascinates me. Its called Salamina. I am also planning the next group of videos.

Adriana send me a message last night telling me they have the Christmas tree up already. They were discussing “letters to Santa” with Martin and Isa. Isa is the 4-year-old of Sandy (Adri’s sister). Isa wanted to know how to get the letter to me, as apparently she is convinced I am secretly Santa. Hilarious. And cute. Last Christmas was really very nice, even if I was sick as a dog with pneumonia. Did you see the videos?

So that’s about it for today. Not a lot going on in my life other than that. 

Take care!… and be kind to others.

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Where have I been? Where am I now?

Where have I been? Where am I now?

I really suck at keeping up with writing. That’s sad because I actually enjoy it. I used to write constantly for a piece of mind. Songs, poetry or just stories. They never saw the light of day, however. That changed when I was asked to write an article for a magazine. I ended up writing over 200 articles, and for 8 years became the editor of another trade magazine. I went on to do a radio show for about 5 years. Those things were all part-time, however, as I worked full time beyond those personal indulgences. 

Yes, I was a workaholic. So most of my life I used writing as a way to handle issues. If I had a bad, heartbreaking breakup, I would write sappy poetry talking about the rain coming from my tears (I never said I was any good!). If I had anything to express at all, I might write a story. In other words, I liked to write and it helped me. Yet, I have not been writing!

No excuses. Nope haven’t been writing. One of my favorite quotes is “Life is what happens while you are busy making other plans”. Thank you, John Lennon. I have been very busy and just did not feel like writing. That’s it. I was busy trying to decide where I would live. Busy dealing with endless pneumonia type problems. Trying to breathe. Then preparing to move. Moving to Colombia, and becoming a man on the run from the law (see my videos). I was swept up in one thing after another, and now I find myself in a city I never planned to move to, nearly broke and without knowing anyone… or very few. Poor me? Hardly.

I like being alone for the most part. I enjoy the silence. I love to do what I want and when without anyone taking offense at my oft-times seeming indifference to things. I don’t like to justify my moods, how I am feeling or what I am thinking. Wtf why do people need to know that anyway? If they knew the things that went on in my head they would certainly rethink trying to pry in there. So I sit here in Manizales, Colombia in the midst of the rainy season (2 months) and am enjoying the sun. I spent some time with my guitar this morning and decided to finally write a little to catch up. After all, it has only been what…6 months? a year?

So what is new? For me, not much. For you, a lifetime of adventures. Because of my illness and medications, I had no interest in females. The meds changed this past spring and true to spring, I started feeling it. I started wanting a female company again. Now after being alone for a number of years, this was daunting. And in another country with poor language skills? To make matters worse, In Cuenca, the ultra-prudish capital of the world. Yet I did OK. 

I will not post photos or reveal names or details, but I will tell you I had 9 “close” relationships this year before I left Cuenca. It was a strange time. Did I find my “life partner”? Well, it takes two. A few turned out to be just for fun (both parties). A couple had real possibilities, but something wasn’t quite there for me. In one case it was fireworks in every way, and nearly everything was great, but there was one aspect I didn’t trust, so I passed on that. There was one. Blew me away. I admire and respect her and loved every moment. Kind, passionate, caring, she had it all. Well, no English, but other than that! So what happened? It is hard to say. One moment everything is great, the next she is running for her life. I got the “It’s not you, it’s me” treatment. I suspect it was best since I really am not so sure I am ready.

So then I moved to Colombia. Here I found I could have what I want whenever I want it for the most part. I have been approached a number of times. I also signed up to one of those dating services. I met quite a few people through that. It is a zillion times easier here, especially if you just want a “hook-up”. But beware. In one case, I was contacted by someone 21. I was not too keen on that as the younger they are the more likely they are just looking for a meal ticket (same as in the USA). And to me, 21 is a baby. But for a few reasons, I decided to meet. She was nice and convincing. SO she came to my place. We sat down to chat (me in my horrible Spanish) and I noticed she really looked young. I mean REALLY young. So I ask her. She turned red, and finally told me she was 18. I had already decided I wasn’t interested in any romantic way, but I still am looking for friends. In her case… warning bells were screaming. So after we talked a while we ended the convo and I walked her to the door. I got the usual kiss on the cheek and said goodbye. She was very nice actually, but it was all wrong. 

She messaged me a few days later to say hello, and in the conversation, I told her my plans. I had to go to an office, and she offered to go and help in case there was a language issue. I said no thanks, but she said she was only a few minutes away, so what the hell, right? She came up to my apartment… in a Catholic school girl outfit. Either she was some role playing hooker, or she was in high school! So I asked her again and she admitted… 16!! Well, that was all just too much. Still over the legal age, but hell no… no, thank you. I decided I didn’t even want a friend that age. It felt very wrong because of what SHE wanted. Now I had made friends with an 18-year-old girl that I ran into near my place and she has helped me with Spanish… nothing more. But that is very different.

Most have been between the ages of 24 and 52. My favorite one by far… one I loved every moment with, turned out to be separated and was still on the fence. Nope… I can’t do that. Too bad, she is awesome. Another comes from a town nearby and turns out she just wants a roll in the hay now and then and doesn’t want anyone in her life to know. What better than another town with little Spanish and no history here? I feel so used! I met a couple that was basically gold diggers. Sorry girls, no gold here. I can imagine how bad THAT is in Medellin! So in total, how many in Colombia? It depends on what you are talking about. But I can honestly say if I want adult activity it is just a WhatsApp message away with several. If I want a real relationship? Well, I am very picky and just am not finding it yet. With the exception of one possible I mentioned.

Recovering my passport (was lost, had to get new… SEE THE VIDEOS!) getting the visa and Cedula have been a real ordeal. But to be fair, if I had not been here illegally, it is amazingly easy! Visa in 10 days… Cedula in 5. To those who do not know… Cedula is a national ID card. It is required in South American countries and you must always carry it. It’s the law. I now have mine and I am 100% legal, and as I mentioned, I am broke. I will eventually be fine but the next few months will be a challenge. Oh well… not the first time! I have even considered going back to the USA and going back to work for 6 months to a year. I sent out a feeler and got a flurry of calls. The money is great, but the logistics… no car, no apartment, nothing. The offers came from Pennsylvania, Oregon, and Washington. Pay from around $60k to over $100k. But the more I thought about it, the more I see it’s not really practical. It would take a number of months to be effective, and my heart wouldn’t be in it. I LOVE living as I am. Where I am. Going back to that grind (even though I love the work), I wouldn’t be giving my all, I fear. And again, the car and apartment issues… leases etc. So I don’t think that is my answer. 

I started a “GoFundMe” so we will see how that goes. I have this idea that I can travel to various locations for people and do videos. There are many great places to live even though people in general only know “Medellin”. While a nice city, far from my favorite. I couldn’t live there.

Feel free to go back through my videos as they have covered everything. But as always, I use the writing to share things I could never say out loud. I hope your life is going as well as mine is. When I have problems it is more an adventure. And when I do not, it is just a better adventure. My life is good. No, my life is great. A bit lonely at times right now, but not too much. Let’s do this again soon, and maybe not wait so long.


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Wow…. it’s been a YEAR!



Wow…. it’s been a YEAR!

I get busy. Life happens. In a perfect world, I would do a blog entry every day. But I don’t live in that world. My life is very busy, and sometimes things must be set aside. However… there was a larger reason there have been no entries. I was hacked. My domain name was stolen (cuenca-ecuador.com) and sold. I finally got some time recently to figure out how to recover the old files, and here they are.

I am not promising to make entries daily. I will try, however, now and then, to make entries to fill in the blanks that the videos do not or cannot handle. My main focus is on video.
From now until June 10th, I have a lot of changes happening. A few are major. I will be announcing them in upcoming videos. One change you might take away from the name of the new domain. I encourage you to read the entry “What is “Gran Colombia”?”.

I will see you in the next entry!
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Part Six-A Colombia- Armenia Info Post



Part Six-A Colombia- Armenia Info Post

I am getting a LOT of request for some specific info. I am doing this post as a sort of add-on to the series. The info I post below is based on what I am observing and questions I am asking of people here. Please VERIFY everything before you make any decisions.

Climate: 
The very warm days are around high 70’s to low 80’s. I recently posted a screenshot showing 86, and someone thought it was far too hot and like Florida. But it also snows in Florida now and then. I posted it because it was a highly unusual day. Even at that, it had cool mountain breezes making it rather pleasant unless standing in the direct sun. Cuenca is no different. In fact last year we had a heat wave if you remember with a number of days around 90. And there was no breeze. So let’s agree there are anomalies everywhere. What is the norm? 72 is typical. Almost always a breeze. I would say if you consider year round the biggest difference is less rain and much fewer cold days/nights.

Elevation:
Good news and bad news (when will that cliché ever wear out?) The elevation is 4600 feet. Just kidding, no bad news! It is high enough to reduce mosquitoes and the breezes kind of finish that off. I have yet to see a single mosquito in this mountain area, in the city or the country. Because of the mid-elevation, breathing is normal. Cooking is normal. The bread turns brown in the oven. No furnace or heat needed. No a/c needed, however depending on house ventilation you may want a fan once in a while. Where I am, even that hot day it wasn’t needed. With the window open for the mountain breeze, it was natural AC and no bugs.

Health Care and Income:
You will need to do your homework on this one. There are a number of categories for a visa here, and each person may be different. There can be a tax on outside income, however, retirement is not taxed. If you work or have a business here, there is absolutely a tax. I will pass some borrowed info:
courtesy of “retiredandlivingabroad”;

“Colombia Health Care Costs
Not only is the medical care in Colombia of an international standard, but it’s also very affordable. Costs for procedures can be 50% to 90% less than for comparable procedures performed Stateside.
While living in Colombia, you can use the basic, government-subsidized health plan, called EPS. With no Colombian income, this will cost you 12% of the minimum wage (a premium of about US$36 per month). On this plan, you would use the facilities they specify, which will be basic.
From there you can buy add-on plans, many of which require that you have EPS as a prerequisite. These entitle you to faster service and better, more-upscale facilities. Not every insurance company offers add-on coverage to people over 60 so you may need to shop around if you’re older. If you retire in Colombia, Comfenalco (who takes people over 60) has upgrade plans starting at 120,000 pesos per month.
A private, premium plan for in a network of high-end clinics, would run you about 3,000,000 pesos per year (US$1000). Depending on current exchange rates.”

I verified with Javier, who has a well paid Judicial Building pay, that he pays $38 a month for him and his wife. This includes SS style retirement, death benefit, and health care. He tells me you have a 2 or 3-day wait for a doctor appointment. You choose any doctor. Emergencies, of course, are instant.

Exchange Rate:
Right now there is a very favorable exchange rate for you. When I lived here before it was the same. Historically it appears most of the time it is this way. However keep in mind, that like the stock market, exchange rates swing. What is right now near 3000 pesos to the dollar, it could run to as low as 2000 at some point. You just don’t know. Your cost here in CP (Colombian Peso) will remain the same. The economy is very stable. But since you have dollars, as the dollar weakens as loses value, for you it will appear that things cost more. Your $200 rent can become $300 for example. So whenever you figure your budget, I highly suggest you take into account a 20% swing.

Food:
Everything is available. Beef tastes like beef. It is awesome. Milk products are normal tasting. Butter, cream cheese, sour cream, milk, and cheeses all taste good. There are many kinds of cheese here, from Colombia as well as Europe and the USA. And this is Armenia. If you are looking at Medellin for example, you might as well be in Seattle as for product availability. Armenia grows all the tropical fruits as a result of the lower elevation. Banana, pineapple, mango, etc. Oranges are plentiful. It is all high quality and very cheap. While they do have Mercados like in Cuenca, not many people use them. There are constant street vendors that come to your neighborhood all day long with all you need. They even walk through with eggs, cheeses, arepas, etc. In many places, you can do your shopping at your doorstep (except high rises of course). 

People here are similar to Europe, as in many buy food as they need it. They have everything at their fingertips all the time, so no need to store much at home. It is hard to go two blocks and not find a cafe and a bakery. There is a certain “flavor” having a guy stroll through your neighborhood in a slow sing-song voice calling out his eggs or cheese. But if you like Supermarkets there are many, with several being national brands.

Food in the restaurants are very cheap, and they have health standards for preparation. I have found nearly everywhere very clean and organized. The exceptions will be the sidewalk BBQ. Smoke, amazing smells, laughter, and music will pull you in. They will have meat and sausages hanging everywhere (partially cooked for safety). I LOVE the charcoaled chorizo in Armenia. Best in the world.

I will add one more page like this. These are highlights. I will have more in-depth in upcoming videos. I am responding here to specific questions I am being asked.
I’m off to visit Javier’s family in another town, so I’ll write again tonight. I am leaving Colombia tomorrow so I will be unreachable until Wednesday.

Part Six-B Colombia- Armenia Info Post

Disclaimer: Due to a number of emails challenging my blog, I will state once again as I do in my videos. What I write (or film) are MY experiences. When I make my own observation, I include the opinions of locals for perspective. In the case of Armenia, I also compare and relate to the time I lived here some years ago. Your experience can be whatever you wish it to be, but mine is mine.
I will complete the info requested than in the next blog, go back to describing my days and the trip back to Ecuador.

Economy:
There are a few places in Colombia that have very strong and growing economies. Medellin that everyone knows of, Bogata, a very expensive place, Pereira, and Armenia. I would have to say that Armenia is booming. Aided by an earthquake reconstruction in 1999 (rare!), the city is full of modern construction buildings built to earthquake standards. The town center is a 9 block promenade, no traffic. As you stroll along with the smiling, friendly crowd, you will see nightclubs and a few casinos, as well as many Cafes and Restaurants of all kinds. Food is very high quality and inexpensive. There are many shops with current fashion in the windows. You will also see many strolling around in those high fashions. Everyone I met was employed (but there is a bunch not. But nothing like the over 50% a decade ago). Now many towns in Colombia have not shared much yet in this boom, but they will. The internal war has only been finished a very short time, and that really hurt the country. With the trade agreements they have and the natural resources (Gold, emeralds, tropical fruits and veggies, as well as the best coffee in the world.. sorry Loja!) the country is poised to explode in growth. It has a very long time stable Republic style Government, friendly to people and business.

Racial Make Up:
I was asked if the population was like Ecuador, in that it is primarily indigenous and Mestizo. It isn’t actually. While there are indigenous, most are on the southern border (spillover from Ecuador and Peru). There are lots of small tribes in various areas, but not numerous. Also, the tribes around Armenia are more of the North American style in look and dress. The largest groups are European white and Mestizo. The coast, as in Ecuador has a large population of black, for the same reasons… Spanish and the slave trade many years ago. As there are few blacks in Armenia, I can’t say much to the person that ask me how it would be in Armenia. I did ask, and had a strange look given to me, and ask why anyone would care. That may be the answer for you. Overall, the city of Armenia is primarily white Anglo or a mixture of.

Culture:
I will note the contrast that jumped out at me. In Cuenca area, the identity of people I would say is the farmer. Growing food, raising cows for milk, and just seeing so many involved in that in daily life, clothes, etc it seems obvious. In Armenia, it is more Rancher. In fact, the basic history is rancher and cowboy. Horses are everywhere, and you see cowboy hats vs Panama hats. I bought one for the videos, and left it on the bus! That is the reason the beef is so good. They have raised actual cattle for generations. They are quite skilled at it, and you can see rodeos, horse parades, etc. It is a bit like the old west in fact, especially when you sprinkle in the local indigenous looking like the Hopi Indians.
The people are very outgoing, Very social, they break into song and dance anytime, anywhere. Dancing the Salsa is a MUST. Parties break out anytime for no reason. People on the street go out of their way to chat with you, with a big smile. It is the polar opposite of the introversion of the Cuenca culture.  You might think there is a new found joy as a result of the Socialist/Criminal war ended, but in the midst of it 15 years ago, they were exactly the same. No matter the threat, they will live their life with joy.

Cost of Living:
I can only tell you about some things. I will have prices now and then in the videos. Rent, 2-3 bedroom apartments furnished, 200-300 a mo (Armenia). City style high rise with security and amenities, about $500. Restaurants are much cheaper. Almuerzo’s similar, but more salad/veggie and larger meat. Wings (alitas) half the cost from here. Buses a bit more, Taxis more. One of the downsides is gas. A taxi about halfway across Armenia would be 5000 pesos, or about $1.80 (Much less traffic!). Buses run in town about $.67. Street food is very cheap. There are Mercados, but it is more like an outdoor farmers market. Super Mercados are common. Most people have a car or motorcycle, and bicycles are common and have road space. They are cheap to buy and license. (compared to Ecuador).  You can get a Harley in fact. Half the motorbikes you see long flowing hair from all the girls that ride them. Televisions are more USA pricing. There is virtually no to very little import taxes. It is overall less money to live than Cuenca, which is actually an expensive place (compared to other places in Ecuador). I found that I could live quite well on about $1000 a month after a conversation with Janet. I did a video interview where she highlights some of this. We actually spoke about an hour on details.
I think that is about it on the “list”. I will add anything I left out into the rest in the posts to come.
Tomorrow, I go back to the saga of the trip! The fun stuff!

See you then.


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Part Five Colombian Trip



Part Five Colombian Trip

One matter to clear up for those that emailed to ask. I am being asked, where are the details? Pictures? Rent cost, taxi fare food, etc etc. Patience Grasshopper! I have a number of videos coming with much of the detail and the neighborhoods as well as downtown. I have at least one interview and specific plans for comparisons from Armenia to Cuenca, which will begin on this blog and finish with a video. It will all be there. These current entries are my attempt to share with you my experience and feelings as I go from day to day. While yours may be entirely different, I want you to feel what it is like in my shoes on this trip. For those considering a visit or even moving here, by the time this series ends hopefully you feel you saw everything I saw, and I am making a point to gather some specifics. I do thank you for all your kind comments. The amount of views has really surprised me. Please know I am doing my best. (This intro was written yesterday morning. Below is today, Saturday evening)

On day two in Armenia, I decided to go for a walk. I walked north on Calle 19 (main 4 lanes) I went about 6 blocks. I crossed over east 2 blocks, then walked back past the Cine. A left turn up the hill, past the University, and right turn. Walked a few more blocks until I  got to Texas Burger again, I was craving this burger so I returned to get it. I sat on the outdoor patio people watching. What a huge difference. The women here dress as if you were in the USA on a hot day. midriff shirts, latest fashions, make up, etc. In many ways, it is similar to a small, nice USA town/city. It numbers around 300,000 people in total. That is half the size of Cuenca. There are perhaps 200 Gringos here. I haven’t seen any, but I am told they exist. That number is a guess among three people. I can tell you first hand, the people here are very fond of the USA and the people, and are extremely welcoming. Perfect strangers stop to talk. Everyone I have met, in a store, restaurant or on the street, is very helpful. They also try very hard to understand your Spanish, and in every situation, they actually would coach me to the right word or phrases. I found a town full of Spanish teachers! There is also a huge desire to learn English. Go back 15 years. I had spent most of my time in Pereira, and some time in Armenia. Not a single person in all the months I lived here spoke English. How times have changed since the trade agreement about 10 years ago. In Armenia alone, there are at least a dozen institutes specifically to teach English. In fact, any native speaker is welcome to come to work.

Let me take a moment to tell you about where I am staying. It is extremely easy to come here and just find a hotel/hostel. They are everywhere and range from $5 a night for a shared room, to around $10-$15 for private room and bath. I opted to plan it ahead and paid over the Internet for 5 days. It was $12 a night. The bedroom is very small. It has enough room and a single bed. It also has attached a private bathroom and shower. Hot water is fine. I have the run of the place, including a new washer, kitchen, and fridge, living room, etc. It is very comfortable and homey. There is fresh juice and coffee whenever I want. Breakfast and lunch are offered daily but I haven’t been too hungry, so I generally pass.
There are plenty of traditional US style hotels as well for $30 and up. I chose this as I know it is better to find help with the local scene. Boy was I right there!

I am staying in a 24-hour security building, on the third floor, and it has 4 bedrooms. Javier is the father. He works at the municipal Judicial building about 8 blocks away. His wife is away, staying with her mother, who is in her end of days, over 90. She wanted to spend every possible moment before that happened. She left her job and family, with full support, to do that. One daughter has her own place, I haven’t met her. Her name is Jessica. I suspect she lives in another city. Janet lives here. She is perhaps 28, and is an English teacher in a large building right across the street. She is extremely outgoing and constantly keeps her brother in check. She will tear into him in a heartbeat. Not in a bad way. She is just very strong willed. Jammer (pronounced Hammer) is the son, perhaps 32. I never ask where he works, but he brings home stacks of papers, and works through the night, then heads off early in the morning. He works hard. 

These people have been amazing. Aside from catering to my every need (which I have to constantly turn down), they have shared all the spare time they have to talk to me, explain the area to me, and taking me out to see various things. The past two evenings they have taken me out to eat, their treat. Today was quite an adventure but that will be in an upcoming installment.

Janet flew to Bogata last night (Friday) for a planned week with friends. I was a bit worried as she was my English connection. But in truth, it was a blessing. As I have mentioned many times, I lived here a while 15 years ago. During that time, I struggled with Spanish but could understand people after a few months of zero English. I was married for over 8 years to a wonderful Colombiana as well. But in Cuenca, I have struggled mightily with the language. What I am about to say is difficult to explain, and will probably be misunderstood, but I am going to try anyway.
When I arrived in Ecuador, I felt like it was a language I never heard before. I assumed that was due to the many years since I heard it. I am not saying it is not Spanish or wrong. But in my own head, I was confused. So many words were new, so many were pronounced differently, most people speak quietly, and fairly fast.  Even words and phrases I know I struggle with. I also find that quite often if I do not pronounce something exactly as they want, they act like I am from Mars. I’ll repeat a word over and over, only to find on the fifth try, they say the word to me, and to me, it sounds the same. It is frustrating and I constantly feel stupid. This is from my perspective only and is inside my head. Had I come here never being anywhere else, I doubt I would have the issue. After several years I barely manage. Hell, I learned Japanese fluently in a year! I know I’m not stupid.

Here is the positive for me. I arrived in Armenia and felt comfortable. People were speaking slower and clearly. They spoke at a reasonable volume. They pronounced words the way it had burned into my head. I will give you one example. LL. In Cuenca, that is silent. Medellin is pronounced “Med-a-yeen”. But here all LL sound like a “J”. Med-a-jeen. There are many words like that. In my head, since it was familiar, it felt like a stabilizing anchor. Some expert may know what that is about. I have no clue. I just know over the past few days words and phrases are flooding into my head and I can actually carry on a bit of a conversation. I spoke almost only Spanish with Javier all day. We spent the day seeing several towns. I spoke with a number of vendors, ordered food and drinks, talking about horseback riding and many other things. It was like the flood gates opened. Like I had a blockage and just got rotor-routered. I don’t get it but I am really grateful. I feel when I come back this next week (To Ecuador) I will be able to have the confidence to do much better. I was wondering how I survived here for so long before with no one speaking English, but couldn’t now. Maybe I need a shrink.  Oh, by the way, to that retired Spanish professor from the USA that I discussed this with a few months back… you were wrong, sorry. I explained to him the differences and how it confused me. He said I was wrong, and it was all me, He said it was my ear, and that Colombian Spanish was exactly the same. Javier and I had a good laugh about that. He told me he struggles with Ecuadorian Spanish himself. I realize I will get a ton of messages about this. I’m sorry. I am just saying how this has been for ME.

There is so much to tell you about this place. So much, in fact, I am struggling with prioritizing and organizing! If we were talking I would likely be gushing incoherently. To help myself I will bullet point a few things coming up.

I have a ton of really good video clips. I have several interviews, I think 3 so far. One is with Janet, speaking in English about what you could expect life to be like here. She describes rental costs, costs of living, and a number of other important things if you are considering visiting or even moving here. Today, We went to a beautiful tourist town. Winding country roads with breathtaking scenery. A picturesque town, and horses everywhere. We drove on to a nature site with the ultra tall palms, the countries national tree. It is quite a view. Last night, we went to have charcoaled Chorizo, and then I cover the drive to the airport, with the entire family singing to the radio (Jammer a bit key-challenged). A few shots in the airport as well. I have some El Centro info, as well as shots of apartment buildings and a residential area. You will find some things striking, one is the fencing. The houses have low decorative fences rather than a wall. Coming from Cuenca, that jumped right out at me. You will see an interesting technique to disguise cell towers. I have a number of pricing comparisons as well.

To those that have been following this blog, and sending so many nice comments, I thank you very much. I really hope to cover as much as possible for you and present the most honest and realistic view I can make. My last blog of this series will be after I return to my little town of Giron. I think the perspective of being home will be a good way to close it out. I wish I could make the video’s companion to these blogs, but for several reasons, I do not think I can get the first one out until after I get back home. So I’ll keep gathering the info and planing the videos, and if you still follow you will see the same trip only with sights and sounds. My goal with the blogs is to share the feeling. I began this blog a day and a half ago, so while I am repeating a bit, I am updating.

Thank you!


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Part Four- Colombian Trip

Part Four- Colombian Trip

There I am standing outside a pitch black building after 3 AM. Will this trip just keep going downhill? I am a very optimistic person, but at this point, it sure crossed my mind that sitting on the steps for another 4 hours isn’t my idea of fun. I’m tired, frustrated and thirsty. On the other hand, life is an adventure and it is a bit fun to wonder what lies behind the next turn. All in all, I felt pretty good. I got here. I escaped the land of zombies. The cab actually survived the trip. It’s a big win.

I decided to knock on the glass door. Glad I did. There was a doorman! He called up to the apartment, and in a few minutes, a sleepy person met me in the lobby. He welcomed me and took me up to my room. Gave me shower things (I am SURE it was more than routine. I must have been RIPE) and said: “in the morning”.
As beat as I was, I wanted that shower more. It was a HUGE relief. I felt so much better. I lay down, and a moment later it was 8 AM. They were surprised I got up but offered me breakfast, some freshly made juice (mango) and coffee. I took the juice and coffee. Still not hungry. Still vibrating. I was really feeling disoriented. I had never in all my travels spent so much time on a bus as I had just done. Not even close. If the entire trip was like the last bus, it would have been awesome. But those first buses kind of ruined it all. But hey… now I know. Any lesson is a good lesson.

I sat for a while, reviewing some clips I took and began writing. I did the first 3 parts at one sitting, over about 5 hours. The clips… so many! I realize in this situation, videos wouldn’t be happening for  a while. But I continue taking them so I’ll have a lot of excellent shots.

I am staying at an Air B&B. The guy that handles it is Jammer (pronounced Hammer). He lives here with his dad, Javier. His sister, Janet lives here as well. Janet is an English teacher at a large institute. In fact, it is literally right across the street. Javier works in the government Judicial building. Not sure what he does. Jammer, well I don’t know. He just works with huge stacks of papers in the evening and goes to work during the day. He seems overworked and stressed. Janet is the only one that has a car, none of them need one. She has a nice new Mazda. Did I mention that gas is $10.50 a gallon here? It is insane. No one seems to know why since it is cheap the world over. You would think Venezuela or Ecuador both gas producers and both next door, would have a fire sale for them. It is something everyone here brings up in the first minute of conversation. As you can imagine it is killing the taxi drivers and bus owners.

Overall, prices (in general) are cheaper than Ecuador. More so than I thought. It is also extremely modern. When you walk the streets you see amazing progress since the 15 years I was here last. I will have detail on all this in some upcoming videos. I will do some direct comparison, both good and bad. (Bad is a bit harsh, there is no bad either way really. Perhaps good, better and best?)

Late that afternoon, Janet came home, the Dad dropped in and Jammer was home that day. They wanted to take me to a local favorite spot called Texas Burger. I’m in! Jammer had work to do so Janet and Javier and I walked up the steep hill about 4 blocks, turn right a block and it was across the road. I order churrasco (char-grilled steak). Good beef! It was delicious! I was torn between that and a burger. Janet and I talked about a million things as she would stop now and then to keep her dad in the convo. I could barely eat the dinner, so she took it home for me for later, and I and Javier went for a walk. 

There is an amazing area full of shops and restaurants, with no cars allowed. It goes on maybe 8 blocks or more. Everything you can imagine is there. the streets around then, 7-8 PM, were packed. Couples, families, people out for a stroll, shopping or having dinner or coffee (many Cafes along the way) We end up at the main park, to see a big protest going on. This one was about education. there is a teacher strike. Its been two weeks ago and people are getting a bit annoyed with the strike.

I had to see the stark difference from 15 years ago. In those days more than 50% of the population was unemployed. Many towns were controlled by FARC, Narcos/criminals. Medellin was a mess. The area I am in now was the wild west. This is where I was shot at back then. People stayed in the home after 6 PM. Those were dangerous times. No one ever stopped dancing or partying, but it was in the house or within a close neighborhood mostly. Today, it is open, safe and free. To note the teachers striking, or in fact, see anyone complaining having lost sight of the massive improvement to life here just stood out to me. Isn’t that the nature of us humans? nothing is ever good enough, and what have you done lately? My thoughts aside, it was peaceful, in fact, fun. They played music and now and then break into a chant of “VIVA! VIVA! VIVA!. Good times. What else is there to do on a Wednesday evening?
We got back around 9:30 PM. I stayed up until around 1 AM, then hit it hard. I didn’t wake until 6:30 AM. I felt so much better!


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Third Installment of Colombia Trip (Part Three)



Third Installment of Colombia Trip (Part Three)

We drive away, saying good-bye to the family running alongside, and I settle in again. I was told the bus takes me to Cali, and from there I then find another bus to take me my destination of Armenia. I have lots of time to play out in my mind how this will go. I ask the driver how long before we reach Cali and he tells me the hours, added up to 11:30 PM. I’m wondering will there be a bus that late? When will it leave Cali? What will I do in the meantime? Who might be hanging around the bus terminal at night? When will I actually arrive in Armenia? It was feeling like never. But I’m in a great mood, watching the towns roll by and the beautiful scenery. All forms of thoughts run through my mind. I know I need to eat and sleep, but I am too wired for either. I just sit and vibrate.

We drive through El Bordo and Popayan. Along the way, we pass a cattle ranch. Don’t might dismiss what I saw too lightly. This ranch went on for miles. Very large 1000+ lb beef cattle, longhorns and all. And again, I remember… Good beef! While I always found Colombian food to be quite bland, I always appreciated the quality and several specialties I learned to make and have enjoyed all these years. San Cocho. Empanadas Colombian style. Arepa. 

Chorizo! The best in the world is right in Armenia! I have never had better anywhere. I learned to make it when I was there and make some for myself now and then. I can eat several of those (Armenian), but all the others I have tried I don’t even finish one. Not bad, just not the same and a letdown. Every country and region has its own specialties, and those are my favorites from Colombia. And of course, delicious beef.

We pulled over the bus around 9 PM at a roadside restaurant (open air of course). There were another dozen or so buses also stopped. I went in and saw a big charcoal pit with slices of beef of the coals. That’s for me. It was AMAZING! Keep in mind I hadn’t eaten since Monday morning, but it would be good anytime I am sure. It came with rice and beans, skipped the rice. Had a delicious cucumber salad, ate all of that. I declined the soup. Hungry but not that hungry. 8000 pesos and I’m ready ($2.70, with juice). I get a bottle of water, con gas, and get to the bus. A restaurant worker is busy cleaning the huge windshield so I have to wait a few minutes. I get on the bus, and in about an hour of driving, I doze off. 

I’m semi-sleeping, and thinking it had been some time. I decided to open my eyes and see what is going on. It is 2 AM. My brain is foggy (more than usual to all you wise guys) and things aren’t registering yet. I look at signs, and I see Armenia with an arrow to the left. I see Bogota with an arrow to the right. We turn right. Wait a minute, this doesn’t sound right for Cali.

I walk up the aisle, staggering from tired and bus movement. I sit on the step by the driver and ask him where we are. He didn’t say Cali. He asks where I was going and I told him Armenia. He groaned and gave me an “aye no”.  He seemed to be at a loss. He slowed down the bus. We were heading up a long winding hill, with a ton of trucks going the other way. He got to a spot that leveled out and he came to a stop. He got out and stood in the road. Not 5 minutes later, he waved down a bus, then called for me. I grabbed my pack and got on the bus, sitting in the jump seat. We drive a while back down the hill until we reach Calarca. He is going left, and I need to go right. he says good night and good luck. I get off. 

It is after 2 AM, and I am standing in Ghettosville. There are several dozen people wandering around. This was the shack end of town. Tin roof and plywood sides. No one seems to have a real purpose to be up that late. There was a crew of guys trying to get money from the truck drivers by hitting the tires with a stick when they came to a stop. Listening for a flat tire. They then ask the driver to be paid. about one in five got something. I watched the scene as I decide what I am going to do. I know about where I am as I recall this area. Armenia is a few miles away, up a hill. Too far to walk, but I can’t really stay around here. At some point, someone will get ideas not good for me or them. I start walking looking for someone to give me a ride. Low and behold a “taxi” pulls up from a side street. I jump in front of him so he can’t pull out. I ask if he can take me to Armenia. 

Now I know my Spanish sucks, But I also know I said it right. He acted like he didn’t get it, so not taking a chance of losing him, I jump in. I tell him where again. I show him a map. He begins driving. After about 3 or 4 blocks he pulls to the side and asks me again. We now spent 20 minutes going over the address, where it is, how he should get there. I’m tired but patient. Not much choice, right?

I want you to know. It was a dangerous location at the worst time of night. On the other hand, I never felt in danger. When I travel I take certain precautions so even if I am robbed I won’t lose much, but in all the years traveling in some very dangerous places, I never have been. First thing? Act like you belong there. Be bold. Say hello and smile. Criminals prey on the fearful. They stay clear of those not afraid, in my experience. That may or may not be true but it worked yet again for me that night.

I don’t seem to be getting anywhere with the driver. Of course, I am keeping an eye out in case he is stalling. He seems harmless enough. My phone isn’t working as I haven’t replaced my SIM card yet. Probably should have done it with one of the hundreds of street vendors offering them at the bus station. Oh well. He pulls out his phone! I give him phone number one. No answer (2:30 AM now). I give him a second. Instead of saying my name and I have a reservation, he is only asking directions and address of the place! I heard him and knew anyone with sense wasn’t about to give out that info to a stranger at 2:30 AM! This is a one bedroom B&B in a family home. They aren’t expecting me for another 12 hours. So, no surprise, they hang up. I learn later there is also an epidemic of phone scammers trying to extort money with a lie early in the mornings, and people are advised to hang up. Just my luck this week. You just have to laugh!

I am really tired of sitting there doing nothing, so I tell the guy to forget the address (which I told him and showed him several times in writing and on the map) and just drive me to El Centro. It’s not a long walk and I was really weary of this. He FINALLY starts to drive.

Let me tell you about his car. It is about a 1998 Mazda 3 series. It’s old. It’s loud, and the clutch slips. The engine has a major miss at low rpm. I imagine it has no compression. It smells. Exhaust fumes. We start climbing the hill and its slipping and skipping. You can smell it overheating. But he is determined and he feathers the gas works the clutch and gets enough to keep rolling. We start to gain speed, and the skipping subsides. We are moving now! I look over and we are up to about 20 kph. but hey, we are moving in the right direction.

Now I have never been to this street. I am working off a 15-year-old memory and so much has changed. But I know where to go when we get in town. The streets operate by number. I am going across the street from a very large school. I am on the corner of Calle 19, which is a main 4 lane road with a center median. How can you miss it, right? I am pointing and he keeps going around the block. Three times. I tell him to stop. I’ve really had enough. He rolls to a stop… in front of the building. I was really happy to be done with this. I paid him and turned to a very dark and locked building.


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